Weingut Weingart Bopparder Hamm Riesling Spatlese, Mittelrhein, Germany

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Weingart’s 2007 Bopparder Hamm Riesling Spatlese (principally from Ohlenberg) introduces a seductively creamy texture and nut-paste flavors to musk melon, honey, malt, and citrus already familiar from the cast of other wines in this collection. Enveloping in its richness, this long-finishing wine could at most be faulted for a bit of excess sweetness, though anyone with patience can hold it for a decade or more and arrive at a not only more complex but drier impression. Florian Weingart’s reputation continues to mount, but he remains always the self-effacing and astute observer of wine, very much including his own. Given the amount of nobly sweet wine produced here in 2006 and the sometimes problematic quality of the botrytis that appeared this year, the estate essayed little in that genre this year, much of which moreover ended up as blending material.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300