Muller-Catoir's tendency to produce more structured wines than most others in 1992 is evident with the beautifully poised, perfumed, crisp, well-delineated 1992 Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Kabinett. Dry, with excellent depth and richness, as well as a backward personality, this is a 1992 that should open with 1-2 years of cellaring, and keep for a decade. Muller-Catoir is Germany's most fashionable winemaker, enjoying a position among connoisseurs much like that of such illustrious French winemakers as Jean-Francois Coche-Dury, Comte Lafon, Michel Niellon, and Olivier and Leonard Humbrecht. Muller-Catoir's aromatic wines are undoubtedly super-ripe and multi-dimensional, as well as exceptionally complex. Most importantly, they are delicious! Not surprisingly, Muller-Catoir excelled in the 1992 vintage, with two of the firm's sweeter cuvees approaching perfection. A Terry Theise Estate Selection, imported by Milton S. Kronheim Co., Washington, DC.
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