Domaine Coche-Dury Les Enseigneres, Puligny-Montrachet, France

科奇酒庄恩斯诺（普里尼-蒙哈榭村）白葡萄酒

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The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignières is especially successful this year, bursting from the glass with notes of crisp stone fruits, white flowers, blanched almonds, pastry cream and sesame oil. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a concentrated core of fruit, racy acids and striking purity and precision, it's an elegant, penetrating wine that stands out even in this very compelling portfolio.

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignières wafts from the glass with notes of pear, green apple and white currants mingled with notions of fresh mint, toasted almonds and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, it's lively and concentrated, with a tightly wound core and an abundance of chalky, structuring dry extract. This is another cuvée that is performing especially well in 2019.

The brilliant 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignières exhibits notes of lemon oil, green pear, fresh pastry and warm bread, followed by a medium to full-bodied, tensile and incisive palate that's attractively satiny, with terrific concentration and depth at the core. After the frost-impacted 2016 vintage, the 2017 represents a more classically proportioned Enseignières from Coche-Dury.

The 2016 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignières unfurls in the glass with a classy bouquet of lemon oil, almond paste, crisp green apple, crushed chalk and a subtle framing of oak vanillin. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with excellent concentration, racy acids and chewy extract that lends the wine lovely structure. While it isn't quite as incisive as the Meursault Village this year, it's more powerful and clearly built for the long haul.

The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignieres has a light apple blossom and lime-scented bouquet that needed some encouragement from the glass. It comes across more backward when compared to the 2015 Meursault Rougeot or Narvaux that preceded this wine at the domaine tasting. The palate offers candied orange peel on the entry that gallivants about with mandarin and grapefruit. It is hot-wired with a "killer" line of acidity that imbues this Puligny with supreme energy. The finish is pleasantly saline and offers a cheeky dab of lemongrass on the aftertaste. This is just superb.