Like its stunning 2006 predecessor, Donnhoff 2007 Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs exhibits haunting, exotic floral aromas, here allied to green tea and spirituous berry and pit fruit essences. Peach, cherry, winter pear and grapefruit interact with deep, savory, saline, crystalline mineral elements as well as musky, leathery animal notes in a succulent, bright, interactive display. Subtle creaminess of texture offers a fascinating contrast with the animated exchange of flavors, and the long, engrossing finish somehow both soothes and stimulates. If this doesn't amaze and excite you (not to mention confound your ability to pick out its sensory elements), then it's hard to imagine any dry German Riesling doing so. The track record for Donnhoff with this site is brief, but experience with his Hermannshohle suggests, by anlogy, at least a 15 year life span. While Donnhoff returned to his usual humility in characterizing the latest vintage - following an atypically unabashed outbreak of enthusiasm in describing his indeed amazing collection of 2006s - it is clear that the 2007s delight him in a similar way, as outstanding representations of their respective sites at Spatlese ripeness. (Note, incidentally, that the Pradikat has been removed from any dry wines here, in keeping with a new convention of the Nahe branch of the VDP growers- association.) -Within that range of ripeness,- he submits, -one best-recognizes the site. Here you have nothing exaggerated, but instead a normal harvest, meaning a documentation of the vineyards, each a different face on the landscape. They all went to the same school and had the same opportunities- he adds, gesturing to the long row of Spatlesen on the tasting table, and alluding to his own role as well as the vintage-s. -It was a bit intimidating this year at harvest,- he added, -because when the grapes are perfect, you can only make mistakes.- I had the rare fortune to taste this collection twice, and like so many 2007s (a comment that even more growers made about their 2008s) the wines were much more impressive in September than in Spring. A 2007 Hermannshohle Trockenbeerenauslese, by the way, is still trying to become wine after two years.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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