Domaine Coche-Dury, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, France

科奇酒庄（科尔登-查理曼特级园）白葡萄酒

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Deep and muscular, the 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru opens in the glass with aromas of orange oil, pear, white flowers, nutmeg, freshly baked bread and mint. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's deep and concentrated, with racy acids, an enveloping core of fruit and a long, saline finish. This is the broadest-shouldered wine in the range, but it shares in its contemporaries' pristine balance.

The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru won't be released for several years—indeed, the 2014 went on the market only a few months ago—but it is already a wine to be eagerly anticipated. Unwinding in the glass with a deep but youthfully reserved bouquet of citrus oil, ripe pear, toasted sesame and smoke, it's full-bodied, multidimensional and complete, with a muscular, concentrated and tight-knit core and a long, intensely mineral finish. Coche's decision to hold back the wine for several years is to be applauded, because this legend-in-the-making needs and deserves time.

The 2014 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a wine that leaves you lost for words - never helpful in this profession. It begs the question: Why are not all Corton-Charlemagnes like this? It has a stunning bouquet with a profound mix of yellow plum, Mirabelle, Seville orange marmalade, those liquid minerals and later, scents of cold wet limestone. The palate is incredibly powerful with stunning acidity. There are multiple layers of spice-tinged citrus fruit, just a faint tinge of marzipan, wondrous umami sensation in the mouth with grilled walnut and a hint of pralines towards the finish. This represents an astonishing Corton-Charlemagne that might end up touching the imperious 2005. Readers should note that Raphael told me that the release of this will be delayed, just like the 2005 and 2010. Put it on your wish list and wait.

Rapha?l Coche-Dury describes this as the most challenging vintage of his career to date, but the 2013 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is showing very well, unfurling in the glass with notes of yellow orchard fruit, mandarin and lemon oil, almond paste and subtle top notes of petrol and white flowers. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, layered and intense, with an ample mid-palate, juicy acids, chewy extract and a long, saline finish. This isn't as structurally taut as the best vintages, so it will be a comparatively precocious rendition of this reliably long-lived cuvée, but it should deliver great pleasure over two decades or more.