Domaine Dujac Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France

杜雅克酒庄（波内玛尔特级园）红葡萄酒

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The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is brilliant, exhibiting inviting aromas of cherries and raspberries mingled with rose petals, rich spices and vine smoke, followed by a full-bodied, ample and multidimensional palate that's richly layered, underpinned by powdery tannins and lively acids.

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is performing every bit as well in bottle as it promised to in barrel. Exhibiting a deep bouquet of dark berries, orange zest, rose petal, coniferous forest floor and spices, it's full-bodied, pure and perfumed, its velvety attack segueing into a deep, layered mid-palate of striking energy and intensity of flavor. This is often my favorite wine in the Dujac cellar, though it invariably takes the better part of two decades to attain a semblance of maturity, and the 2020 is a benchmark rendition.

Unfurling in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of cassis, wild berries, rose petals, peonies and sweet soil tones, Dujac's 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cruis is full-bodied, lively and incisive, with a muscular and tight-knit core, racy acids and a long, chalky finish. As usual, this is one of the tightest-knit, most overtly mineral reds in the cellar, and it will demand patience.

Unwinding in the glass with notes of cassis, wild plums and red berries that are complemented by nuances of peonies, heather and dark chocolate, Dujac's 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is full-bodied, deep and incisive, its tight-knit core structured around fine but chalky tannins and tangy acids. Firm and introverted, as is so often the case, it has superb potential and will reward the patient, but readers considering purchasing this serious Bonnes-Mares should count on exercising over a decade's patience before opening bottles.