Penfolds Reserve Bin A Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, Australia

奔富珍藏Bin A霞多丽白葡萄酒

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The Reserve Bin Chardonnay is sourced exclusively from the Adelaide Hills, and the 2022 Reserve Bin A Chardonnay was again (as in 2021) the beneficiary of an excellent season. Matured for eight months in French oak (75% new), the wine here is creamy and saturated (drenched) in salted stone fruit flavor. This is another superstar release for this cuvée, and it illustrates the capacity for greatness in the Penfolds whites. The Chardonnays go through 100% malolactic fermentation and are inoculated with the Penfolds yeast isolate, and it is notoriously integrated, even at this early stage. It may seem an odd thing to note here, but I am struck by it every year. Powerhouse. Awesome. It ages prodigiously, stands up beautifully in masked lineups and paints a magnificent picture of the Adelaide Hills. It's salty and palate-staining and has curry leaf, brine, green olive, yellow-fleshed peach (al denté), white flowers, green apple, wet concrete and pine trees after rain. Excellent. Highly recommended. 12.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

The 2021 vintage in the Adelaide Hills was cool in the context of the region, and the 2021 Reserve Bin A Chardonnay is imbued with a delicacy and laciness, bedded down on a base of crushed nuts and exotic spice. There is white peach, green apple, brine, a hint of curry leaf and layers of orchard fruit. The acidity is fine and citrus driven... pithy and subtle. Largely made from Bernard Clones 95 and 96, the wine matured for nine months in 50% new French oak. The vineyard sourcing for this wine is trending closer and closer to the Piccadilly Valley. Clocking in at a minute 12.5% alcohol (on the label, that is, but Peter believes it's more like 12.3% or 12.4%), the wine has volume and generosity, without weight or density. It billows in the mouth but is inordinately restrained, sophisticated and polished. A brilliant wine that showcases the excellent vintage.