Quinta de Soalheiro Alvarinho, Melgaco, Portugal

索阿列罗酒庄阿尔巴利诺白葡萄酒

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The 2012 Alvarinho was tank aged and bottled in January, 2013. It comes in at 12.5% alcohol. It is just what most will want in fine Alvarinho. The winery calls 2012 a “perfect harvest.” The end result seems quite brilliant. Crisp, focused and pure, with just a bit of a lemon-y note early on, it is a beautifully wrought, very precise and very concentrated Alvarinho. It is intense, yet transparent and expressive. It lingers wonderfully on the finish, showing more and more grip as it goes along. There is a touch of herbaceousness as well, which gives it some individuality and a lot of personality, plus an invigorating character. Hours later, it was notably better. The next day it may have been better still. It is a very fine effort from one of Portugal’s (and the world’s) top Alvarinho producers. Soalheiro makes a number of specialty Alvarinhos, too. They will have to go some to beat this, though, and this one is likely to be far better priced. It should age quite well and improve in the cellar, but it will certainly be impressive this summer as well. One final note: you may think that this is expensive for Vinho Verde. Treat this like quality wine. It is not stereotypical Vinho Verde. There is no fizz. It is dry. It will age well if well stored. On its own terms, likely to be on many shelves in the low $20s, it is a bargain. Drink now-2022. Importer: Wine In-Motion, Union, N.J.; tel: (908) 688-3837

The 2010 Alvarinho hit 13.0% alcohol, seemingly a small uptick, but unusual for the winery and it seems to show a bit. It maintains its freshness, and seems rather focused and pointed, but hard edged in its youth. It will be interesting to see how this develops. Drink now-2017. Soalheiro does export to the USA, but only some of its labels. The Reserva, for instance. is not exported. These were tasted only in Portugal with winemaker Luis Cerdeira. Unlike most wineries in the region, Soalheiro is known for making things that age a long, long while. Still, while I allow for that in the drinking windows, travel issues and variations resulting therefrom make me remain at least a little conservative in drinking windows.Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044

The 2009 Alvarinho, coming in at 12.5% alcohol, is simply lovely. Piercing and subtle, with finesse and harmony, it is surprisingly persistent despite the laid back demeanor. Luis Cerdeira describes it as a classic vintage. I admired its combination of subtlety and persistence. Drink now-2018. Soalheiro does export to the USA, but only some of its labels. The Reserva, for instance. is not exported. These were tasted only in Portugal with winemaker Luis Cerdeira. Unlike most wineries in the region, Soalheiro is known for making things that age a long, long while. Still, while I allow for that in the drinking windows, travel issues and variations resulting therefrom make me remain at least a little conservative in drinking windows.Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044