Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Kabinett, Pfalz, Germany

卡托尔哈尔特伯哲园雷司令小房酒

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For the extraordinary diversity of great wines that are produced, Muller-Catoir is Germany's greatest estate. Who else achieves such brilliance with not only Riesling, but with Muskateller, Scheurebe, and Rieslaner? Muller-Catoir's 1994s are brilliant wines, as well as the most backward I have tasted from this estate. Their extremely high extract bodes well for future development, as do their magnificently high yet ripe acids. The 1994 Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Kabinett exhibits a striking nose of sweet, Maryland-grown Silver Queen corn (I am not exaggerating!). Dry and ripe, with sensationally extracted flavors, this full-bodied, dense wine offers up an intriguing blend of mineral, cherry, and corn-like flavors. It gives the impression of being tight and backward despite its impressive display of fruit, power, and balance. Drink it over the next decade. Importer: a Terry Theise Selection, Milton S. Kronheim & Co., Jessup, MD; tel. (410) 724-3369