A big, grapey bad boy with super richness but not much refinement or elegance. If size matters to you, then this may be your buddy. It’s full of ribald boysenberry and cassis, and the feel is gritty and big. But it’s short on touch, and overall it’s more of an old-vines fruit bomb than a crafted, precise wine.——M.S.(5/1/2009)—— 88