Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Cuvee Cathelin, Hermitage, France

路易沙夫凯瑟林特酿干红葡萄酒

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In 20 years' time, when the 2015 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin begins to reach maturity, I suspect it may hit that triple-digit plateau. The special attribute of this vintage is its remarkable freshness. Soaring aromas of violets, brioche, crushed stone and licorice lead the way, seguing into a full-bodied palate that delivers waves of flavor, paradoxically, without any sense of weight or heaviness. It takes all the power and intensity and balances them with something I can only describe as lift or vibrancy or perhaps energy. Finishing long, silky and crisp, I suspect this will outlive the regular bottling if any of the lucky buyers can resist its siren song.

A desert island wine, the off-the-charts 2010 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin is a cellar selection (mostly from the granite soils of Les Bessards) that sees a tad more oak than the standard cuvee. Flamboyant and insanely complex, with cassis, blackberry, ground herbs pepper, liquid rock and tings of licorice (among other things), this massive, yet incredibly elegant Hermitage has a full, thick and chewy mouthfeel, huge extract and blockbuster length. Due to the tiny quantities, I doubt this cuvee will even hit the market place, nevertheless, in my opinion, it’s one of the most spectacular wines in the world. Give it a decade or so and enjoy it over the following 2-3 decades. One of the highlight visits during my time spent working in the Northern Rhone, Jean-Louis Chave (who is often called “The Pope of Hermitage” by others) makes some of the most profound wines in the world today. As he says, “We don’t make Chave, we make Hermitage,” and there are few things more educational, when trying to understand this storied appellation, than to taste through each of Jean-Louis’s different Hermitage plots from barrel. The striking minerality and austere cut of the l’Ermite parcel is in stark contrast to the voluptuousness and texture that’s found in the Le Meal (which is just down the slope); and both are completely different from the silky, polished and perfumed Peleat lieu-dit. Despite the notoriety here, Jean-Louis remains one of the most humble and straight talking winemakers out there, and his wines deserve a place in any wine lover’s cellar. One of the highlight visits during my time spent working in the Northern Rhone, Jean-Louis Chave (who is often called “The Pope of Hermitage” by others) makes some of the most profound wines in the world today. As he says, “We don’t make Chave, we make Hermitage,” and there are few things more educational, when trying to understand this storied appellation, than to taste through each of Jean-Louis’s different Hermitage plots from barrel. The striking minerality and austere cut of the l’Ermite parcel is in stark contrast to the voluptuousness and texture that’s found in the Le Meal (which is just down the slope); and both are completely different from the silky, polished and perfumed Peleat lieu-dit. Despite the notoriety here, Jean-Louis remains one of the most humble and straight talking winemakers out there, and his wines deserve a place in any wine lover’s cellar. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Last year I gave the 2009 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin a three-digit rating, but it was nice to be able to re-taste it since it is largely impossible to find in the marketplace. Essentially 100% fruit from Les Bessards, this cuvee is only made in vintages where it will not compromise the integrity and quality of their standard Hermitage (although there is nothing standard about it). The Cuvee Cathelin sees more oak than its sibling, enjoys 50-75 years of aging potential, and boasts over-the-top blackberry and cassis fruit notes intertwined with pen ink, spring flower, graphite and subtle vanillin characteristics. It is a brilliant wine that almost defies description given its ethereal complexity allied to massive weight, power and richness. Yet, it never comes across as heavy or overly-extracted. Forget this for another decade and you and your progeny can enjoy it over the following 50-75 years. I have had the privilege of tasting at this brilliant family-owned estate for over 30 years. During that time, I have seen first-hand the glory of a true evolution from father Gerard Chave to his son, Jean-Louis, and of course, the Chave family has been doing this since 1472. It is one of those small but world-class wine enterprises that is truly inspiring. Tasting through the different vineyards before their newest red and white Hermitages are blended is an education in the different terroirs of that famous dome of largely decomposed granite mixed with gravel and clay. Jean-Louis Chave characterized the 2011 vintage as challenging, where one had to perform draconian crop-thinning and selections in the winery. All the St.-Joseph vineyards are located on steep hillsides near the Chaves’ home village of Mauves, to as far north as St.-Jean de Muzols and Ste.-Epine as well as those once known as Clos Florentin. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Every bit as profound, yet distinctly different, the 2003 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin is a cellar selection that comes mostly from Chave’s Les Bessards holdings and sees slightly more time in oak. More decadent in style, with ripe cassis, truffle, earth, spiced meats and licorice, it offers a singular profile on the palate with massive concentration and extract, a thick, chewy texture and incredible length. As with the straight Hermitage, it stays graceful and elegant, with no sense of weight or heat in its seamless profile. Sadly, there were only 125 cases of this elixir produced, so here’s to hoping I get to taste this singular beauty again as well! Jean Louis’ two 2003 Hermitages should be on everyone’s bucket list of wines to try at least once (preferably more) in their life. They both represent the essence of Hermitage and are as good as wine gets.