Joseph Drouhin Rouge, Cote de Beaune, France

约瑟夫杜鲁安（伯恩丘）红葡萄酒

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The 2010 Cote de Beaune comes across as quite fleshy and supple. Dark red berries, licorice, spices and tobacco are some of the notes that flesh out in this radiant, gracious wine. Drouhin uses young vines from Clos des Mouches and several other 1er Crus for the Cote de Beaune. I especially like the round finish for the way it elevates the wine. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. This is an impressive showing from Drouhin. In my view the 2010s are more interesting and transparent than the 2009s. Veronique Drouhin describes 2010 as a vintage with long-term aging potential, which certainly seems to be the case. Some of the wines were vinified with a portion of whole clusters, including the Corton-Bressandes, Petits-Monts, Charmes and Musigny.Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

Still in tank this March when I encountered it (following a very late completion of malo) the Drouhin 2008 Cote de Beaune – consisting largely of assorted declassified wine from village and premier cru sites – offered a winsome amalgam of pink grapefruit rind, strawberry, cherry, with a polished texture and a refreshing finish tinged with pepper and smoky Latakia tobacco. This should be a delight for the next 3-5 years. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted).Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

The Drouhin 2007 Cote de Beaune – from a variety of vineyards, mostly in Beaune – represents a fine tribute to this establishment’s standards, because in a rot-challenged vintage it nevertheless displays a lovely purity of berry fruit, delightful vivacity, and salt of lip-licking cling. Enjoy it over the next year or two. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted).Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

From small estate acreage (in Chardonnay as well) in and above the cru Champs-Pimonts, and utilizing an appellation one seldom encounters, the Drouhin red 2006 Cote de Beaune is scented with ripe red fruits and hints of underbrush. A lactic, creamy, soothing palate contrasts with chewy hints of berry skin so that there is still a crisp edge and plenty of refreshment to the persistent finish, if less richness and charm than displayed by the corresponding Bourgogne Vero. I would plan on enjoying this within the next couple of years. "I was skeptical when the harvest came," says Philippe Drouhin about 2006, "because the weather had been so hectic; we had to sort the grapes; and it was not as nice as '05. But the more I tasted the '06s in the course of the year, the more I liked them." Winemaker Jerome Faure-Brac says he was hyper-cautious about avoiding the extraction of bitterness or under-ripeness, and employed vendange entier (whole clusters with stems) on a significant share of the grands (and top premiers) crus, but only in conjunction with rigorous table-sorting. Most came in at 13-13.5% potential alcohol. The wines were bottled about as early as they ever have been at Drouhin, to preserve and avoid drying out the fruit. (Just as elsewhere in this report, I have frequently indicated in my tasting note whether the source of grapes is the family's domaine or contract fruit, but have not attempted to reflect this as part of the descriptions used to identify the wines.)Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770