More controversial, but a singular effort for sure, is the Amarone-like 1998 Le Secret des Sabon. Notes of Chinese soy and hoisin sauce, intermixed with meat juice, melted asphalt, camphor, and truffle are more suggestive of an Italian Amarone than a Chateauneuf du Pape. In the mouth, there is no doubt this is Grenache, with its kirsch liqueur, licorice, seaweed, pepper, and lavender notes. This unbelievably thick, juicy, succulent wine pushes the envelope of ripeness and power, but pulls back before going over the top. An extraordinary effort, this distinctive wine should age well for another 20-25 years.
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